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Online Behavior Assistance
Questions
&
Answers
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| Question: Cat With Food Issues |
Dear Miss Madeline-Clare,
My friend has a cat that drives her crazy.
She says he is very sweet, but he does the following:
Growls as soon as his dish of food is about 6 inches from the floor and continues to growl off and on until he's done eating.
Jumps on the kitchen table and counter tops though she says she continuously tells him to get down and will also punish him with a "time out" (she puts him in his room for about 10 minutes).
He also steals her food! She said she made a sandwich for herself and just turned and there he was on the counter with part of the sandwich in his mouth--he growled very badly as she took the food from him. She said she thought he was going to bite her because the growl was so nasty, but he didn't. This happened three times and now she has to be very careful to see where he is whenever there is food around. This has happened right after he has eaten his own meal.
He is only a little over 2 years old. Her neighbor had him before and seriously neglected him and there was some abuse--mainly with their children terrorizing him. He was left outside almost continuously and was hit by a car once. They didn't want to take care of him afterwards but people really made them realize it was their fault. They never got the follow-up operation he needed--my friend did and footed the bill.
When I see the cat, he is very friendly and loving. He is not afraid of people which is surprising after his first year of life.
She has had him over a year now and doesn't know what to do with him. She has other pets (they all get along).
Diane |
| Answer: |
Dear Diane,
It sounds like this cat has an issue with food, probably as a result of neglect and the hunger he has suffered in the past. To help the cat relax when the food bowl is placed on the floor, the owner can hold out a spoon with canned food or squeeze cheese on it and keep the cat focused on licking that as she lowers the bowl onto the floor. She should keep her arm with the spoon stretched out so the cat is kept a few feet away from the bowl as she lowers it. Alternatively, if the cat likes dry food or treats, she can toss a small handful onto the floor a few feet away from the bowl as she lowers it. Once the cat is eating from the bowl, the owner should leave him alone. After a few weeks, when he's relaxed a bit with the new routine, she can pass by the eating cat, shake a treat box, and toss him a treat. She should make sure she stays a "safe" distance from the cat, i.e., far enough away that the cat is not threatened enough to growl. The goal is to teach the cat that his owner is to be trusted and will not take his food from him. In fact, her approach predicts a good thing happening...treats!
As far as the counter jumping goes, this too seems to related to food-seeking. She should try a device such as the "Scat Mat," which delivers a mild electrostatic charge, or "Ssscat," a motion activated compressed air can. When she first places the device on the counter, she should not turn it on. After a day or so, then she can turn it on. In this way, the cat is less likely to make the association between the device and the mild shock or the air burst. These devices are far more effective than scolding. Firstly, the cat doesn't associate the scary event with his owner, which can cause fear issues. Secondly, the device is extremely consistent and works whether the owner is present or not. The device should be kept in place for several weeks to months, and then gradually faded as the cat stop jumping on the counter.
The food-stealing is also obviously also related to the cat's food issues. When the owner is eating, that would be a good time to divert the cat's attention to a food-dispensing toy. Things like a Roll-n-Treat filled with dry food or treats or a Kitty Kong Toy smeared with canned cat food or squeeze cheese can keep the cat occupied while his owner eats her own dinner undisturbed.
Most importantly, the owner should make sure the cat has been examined by a veterinarian and is healthy because some medical conditions cause an increase in hunger and can make food-guarding and food-seeking behaviors worse. For a young cat, intestinal parasites (often referred to as worms) would certainly be a possibility.
I hope these tips are helpful to your friend and her cat!
Good luck, ,
Miss Madeline-Clare
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| Question: Dog With Growling Issues |
Dear Miss Madeline,
Our 4 year old toy poodle, Chloe, has been a joy. She loves each member of our family, obeys commands, plays well with other dogs and she is generally a happy camper.
She has shown no food aggression - we can move her bowls, even while she is eating; however, if she happens upon something dropped, such as a piece of candy or a food scrap that she shouldn't have, she growls and shows her teeth and will snap aggressively.
Lately, she has developed a similar reaction to a different situation.
Chloe has always slept nicely on our bed. Suddenly, she is growling and biting at us if she is disturbed while sleeping, either because we move or she perceives we are about to. She has also done this if she has fallen asleep on a couch - without provocation, she will just start growling and snap at us.
I can sometimes 'talk' her through this by addressing her softly, yet firmly. if I hear her growl before she nips. A second after exhibiting this aggression, she reverts to her happy, sweet self. I am guessing this is a power situation. In situations other than those aforementioned, I am the alpha dog of the pack. Your thoughts, insights and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Jan |
| Answer: |
Dear Jan,
Chloe sounds like she has "grown up," meaning she's reached social maturation. The reason she growls when she finds something, like food or candy, is that history has taught her you take these items. In the dog world, it goes something like "if it is in my mouth or 12 inches from my mouth, it's mine." Chloe simply has learned, from her perspective, that you "steal" these wonderful things she's found fair and square. So, you'll need to teach her to give things to you. To do this, start with toys and things she's not too possessive of. Hold out a really good treat, ask her to drop it, give her the treat as you pick up the item, and then GIVE THE ITEM BACK. Do this 100 times in a variety of situations, and she'll learn that it is a win-win situation. If she finds something, you'll be able to "trade" her for it. For the growling on the bed or couch, she has a similar motivation. She doesn't want to be disturbed. In these cases, I simply recommend that she not be allowed to sleep on the bed or the couch. To teach her this, you may want to tether her (only under supervision!!) so she can't jump on the bed or crate her if she likes a crate. Make sure you give her a comfy dog bed to sleep on as an alternative to the couch or bed. Do not punish her when she growls. Although it may seem counterintuitive, if you punish a dog for growling, the dog will often just learn to go right for the bite! Either remove the trigger for the growling or desensitize the dog to the trigger. The first recommendation is an example of desensitization. The second is eliminating the trigger. If the problem persists, you'll need to consult a professional who understands learning theory and normal dog behavior.
Best of luck,
Miss Madeline-Clare |
| Question: Dog With Growling Issues |
Dear Miss Madeline Claire,
My husband and I rescued a one year old Westie male this past April. He was given up by his owners to Westie Rescue of Maryland for biting their 6 year old boy (after being put in a head lock and dragged by said 6 year old.) He's an amazing boy - so full of energy and life - but he growls at us a lot: when he's tired, when he's eating, when one person is holding/petting him and someone else tries to touch him. How can we stop this behavior? It's gotten less with us, but he still growls at strangers and children pretty quickly.
We've heard that abused dogs need to be handled more delicately, but we don't want to be passive about this. Nor do we want him terrified of us. Help!
Susie |
| Answer: |
Dear Susie,
If your dog has never bitten since you've had him, you can try these recommendations. If he has ever bitten, I would recommend you see a professional.
Talking with your veterinarian would be a good place to start. If it is just growling, you'll need to work on the premise that growling is the most polite way a dog has to communicate to you that he is feeling uncomfortable or threatened. So, we never punish a growling dog as this can create a dog who learns that growling is ineffectual.
Those dogs can turn into dogs who don't warn, which is highly dangerous. So, if your dog growls, you need to either eliminate the triggers for the growling or desensitize him to the triggers.
Perhaps you need to have an early bedtime for him. Simply don't bother him after 8 pm or whenever him seems to become irritable. If he will go into a crate or a bedroom, even better.
For growling around the food bowl, practice walking by at a safe distance, hold a treat up to your eyes and say "watch me" and toss the treat toward him. If he growls, don't toss the treat and stay farther away the next time. The goal is to teach him that your approach predicts good things and you should gradually begin to get closer. Not only aren't you taking his food, but you're giving him something even better.
As for growling at children and strangers, he's frightened. Don't force him to interact with anyone casually. Instead, if you have visitors to your home, allow him to approach them while they are seated. They should not look at, speak to, or try to pet him. They can hold a treat in their hand by their side and let him sniff their hand and take the treat. They can test if he wants to be pet by tickling him under the chin when he sniffs their hand after the treat is gone. He will move in confidently to get more petting if he likes it but back off without feeling threatened if he doesn't like it. Chances are, he will need to get to know people slowly. He should always be permitted to approach them rather than them approaching him.
People should never bend over him and/or try to pet him on top of the head, these are very frightening approaches. The best approach is to associate good things with strangers and allow him to progress at his own pace. He may end up being an introvert and really only feel comfortable with his family. Alternatively, he may come out of his shell when he learns people are not threatening.
Good luck,
Miss Madeline-Clare |
| Question: Dog With Territorial Aggression |
Dear Miss Madeline,
I have 2 dogs that were adopted from the Montgomery County shelter. My problem is with our 9 year old mixed-breed Terrier. She's never liked strangers in the house, but she usually tolerates them and even warms up to them over time. She barks like crazy when they first arrive, but then she calms down.
She has never bitten or attacked anyone. We usually have had neighbors take care of our dogs when we had to work late or if we were away. However, the neighbor's children have grown up and now we're trying a new dog-walking service.
We introduced the dog walker to our dogs and both dogs seemed OK. The trouble is that when the dog-walker enters the house when we're not home, our Terrier carries on so much, that the walker can't/won't go near her. She won't accept food or any friendly gestures - she won't even go outside for a potty break when he arrives. Her growls are very threatening. (The other dog, an 11 month lab puppy is fine with the dog walker.)
Is there a way to overcome this behavior so we can safely leave her in the care of someone else? She's pretty docile when groomed, but she hasn't been kenneled in many years.
Thanks.
Pam |
| Answer: |
Dear Pam,
It sounds as though your dog has territorial aggression. Usually these types of dogs are not amenable to dog-walking services. The problem is your dog doesn't understand that these strangers have your permission to come in. And, territorial behavior is often accompanied by a healthy helping of fear, as well. You may be successful in having someone develop a relationship with your dog by coming over regularly. But, for an older dog who is slow to warm up to people, this would be likely to take a long time and may not ultimately be successful. Unfortunately, you will probably have to find another alternative, such as a boarding kennel or having your dogs stay at someone else's home.
If you do go with boarding, it is a good idea to introduce dogs to a
boarding kennel slowly. Try a day board once or twice prior to leaving them overnight.
Discuss your concerns with the kennel manager. .
Good luck,
Miss Madeline
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| Question: Kitty Scratching Furniture |
Dear Miss Madeline-Clare,
I adopted a cat last spring. When I brought him home he scratched my furniture and slowly but surely destroyed my curtains.
I have tried using a water spray bottle, a tin can full of screws to shake at him and even purchased no-scratch sprays. I have also tried scratching boxes and scratching posts in the areas he likes to scratch, but he is not interested. I even put cat nip on them.
He now scratches my clothes hamper and rugs. He also likes to chew on boxes and desperately wants to go outside.
We are getting ready to move this summer and I really do not want him tearing up our new house or furniture. I don't want to declaw him or give him up since he really is a very loveable cat and we all love him.
Do you have any suggestions on how I can get him to stop scratching and how I can help him adjust to our new home this summer?
Thank you for your help.
Karen
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| Answer: |
Dear Karen,
Scratching is a normal behavior in cats, allowing them to exercise their claws, remove the claw sheath, and visually mark territory. It is a problem when it causes destruction.
What you will need to do is create very attractive scratching areas that are appropriate and prevent scratching to inappropriate areas by using barriers or other devices to make them unattractive.
If your cat likes the hamper and rug, you may want to make some "homemade" scratching surfaces by nailing or stapling materials that are similar to the rug or hamper onto scratching boards or posts. Make sure you place these "legal" scratching surfaces in areas that are socially significant like near the door or in common areas close to where a cat is currently scratching. Also, pay attention to providing both horizontal and vertical surfaces.
Now, to stop the scratching in the inappropriate areas, you'll have to make them unavailable or unattractive. You may need to "redecorate" so you have shorter window treatments that the cat can't access.
You also may wish to use devices like "Ssscat" or a "Scat Mat." Ssscat is a motion detector on a can of compressed air, which will beep and then spray air if the cat gets near it. The Scat Mat will deliver an electrostatic charge if the cat steps on it.
A Vinyl carpet runner, turned upside down so the nubby sides are up, can also prevent cats from positioning themselves to scratch (for example, along the back of the couch).
A variety of plastic furniture coverings are available to protect furniture. Failing this, you can use "Soft Paws," which are nail caps that are glued onto trimmed nails. They do fall off after a week or two, so they will have to regularly be reapplied.
Good luck,
Miss Madeline-Clare |
| Question: "Bully" Cat In Multi-Cat Home |
Dear Miss Madeline,
My husband, daughter and I live in a four feline household; all four of the cats are female. Three of the cats are very docile: an 18 year old named Mungojerrie and two one-and-a-half year old littermates, Misty and Callie. My fourth cat, Jenny, is a dominant two-and-a-half year old. [Note: Two years ago -- about six months after we adopted Jenny -- we lost our two other older cats to illness, Mungo's sister, Rumpelteazer, and Willy, a 14-year-old male, all three of whom lived with me from the time they were eight to ten weeks old.]
Mungo, Misty and Callie are all very docile; Jenny is much more of an alpha personality -- and, I would warrant, something of a bully. Misty and Callie often play with Jenny, and when she gets too rough with them, they become submissive. It is the relationship between Mungo and Jenny that concerns me.
After her sister died, Mungo became somewhat of a recluse, staying in my bedroom nearly all of the time. She occasionally ventures out, and when she does she appears very jumpy until she is back in the safety of my room. If at some point Jenny notices Mungo out of my room, Jenny pounces on her, and Mungo invariable runs back to my bedroom with Jenny hot on her trail. Once she gets back, Jenny leaves her alone until the next time.
My question is, what can I do to keep Mungo from being a virtual prisoner in her own home (she's lived in this house for 11 years, and with me for 18) and refocus Jenny's dominance behaviors onto the two younger cats, who are much more willing to interact with her? Jenny also shows dominance behavior at mealtime when she eats out of Misty's and Callie's food dishes and they just walk away. (I feed Mungo in my room with the door closed to protect her.) Occasionally I will squirt Jenny with a water bottle when I see her eating out of one of the other cats' food dishes, but I haven't been terribly consistent and I'm not even sure if this is a good strategy.
Suggestions?
Jerilyn |
| Answer: |
Dear Jerilyn,
Intercat aggression cases can be very difficult to manage. It sounds like Mungo is a timid cat and losing her two companions has affected her confidence interacting with the other cats. For cats like Jenny, when they see another cat show signs of fear, such as hissing or running, it acts as a trigger for their aggression.
As time goes by, the two cats--the victim and the bully--each learn their part of the "dance" and it becomes very reinforced. Often medication for one or both cats can be helpful. However, you can try some management techniques. For example, you may want to have some "Jenny-free" time. Sequester her and a cat or two that she gets along with in another part of the house and allow Mungo to have unencumbered access to the rest of the house.
You can also put cat carriers with the doors removed and soft bedding in them to serve as safe retreats in the common parts of the house. You can also share the scents of all of the cats by sequentially rubbing their heads gently with a dry cloth. Do this daily and don't wash the cloth until absolutely necessary.
Another technique is to place a breakaway belled collar on Jenny so Mungo can hear her and know her whereabouts. Punishment is usually not effective. What you can do is teach Jenny that whenever she hears you shake a cat treat canister or crinkle a cat treat bag, she'll get a treat if she comes to you. If you see Jenny stare at Mungo, immediately distract and redirect her by making the noise and rewarding her for coming to you.
If these techniques are not successful, talk to your veterinarian. If you need to find a veterinarian in your area who sees behavior cases, go to AVSABonline.org
Good luck,
Miss Madeline Clare |
| Question: Dog With Destructive Chewing |
Dear Miss Madeline-Clare,
New adult beagle/bassett/? chews everything, not necessarily shoes. Any ideas? We've had the dog two weeks. He joins our other adult beagle. They get along very well. He is a happy and easy dog to have around except for the chewing.
Rosemary
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| Answer: |
Dear Rosemary,
It sounds like you have a normal dog who was just never properly chew trained. Unfortunately, it is easier to prevent this problem than to treat it, but it is certainly possible to do with time and patience.
First, you need to always supervise him when he is out and about in the house. That may mean keeping him on leash with you. Make sure you always provide him with at least 3 different types of chew toys wherever you take him (for example, a soft squeaky toy, a nylabone, and a food-stuffed Kong Toy or other food-dispensing toy).
Rotate the toys to keep them interesting for him. If he begins to chew on something he shouldn't chew on, simply redirect him to an appropriate toy. You should not be angry at him, just calmly offer him the appropriate toy repeatedly. Dr. Ian Dunbar has a nice book called "After You Get Your Puppy," which give excellent advice about chew training your dog. Look into food-dispensing toys, like the Busy Buddy line. The Busy Buddy Bouncy Ball is a great hit with many dogs, as is the Roll-n-treat and food-stuffed Kong Toys.
In addition to providing appropriate chew toys, you'll need to prevent him from accessing "illegal" items. Every time he chews on something he shouldn't, the behavior is reinforced and it will be harder to fix. When you're gone, make sure he is confined to a "dog proofed" area.
It may take some time until he is reliable and there may always be some things that are just too tempting for him. But, you can make a big difference by setting him up to succeed through limiting his access to things he shouldn't have and providing him with an enticing array of appropriate chew items.
Good luck!
Miss Madeline-Clare |
| Question: Puppy Mill Dog |
Miss Madeline,
I adopted a dog that was rescued from a puppymill. He is a 3 year old yorkie and we've had him since 1/5/08. Every time he sees my son he growls and runs away from him . He also does the same thing with my grand kids. What can we do to break him out of this behavior.
Teresa
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| Answer: |
Dear Teresa,
The first thing you need to think about is why your dog growls and runs when he sees your son and your grandkids. I don't know how old your son is, but I'll assume he is the adult father of the grandkids.
The reason dogs growl is to communicate concern about a situation. The reason they run is obvious, avoidance. So, putting those two things together, it is fairly clear that your little dog is terrified of your son and the grandkids. And, he probably has good reason to be. As a breeder at a puppy mill, he's lived his entire life in a cage. It is possible he's never seen any children and they simply frighten the heck out of him. The people who ran that puppy mill were men. It is likely, given the condition of the animals, that there was little affection or kindness offered to these poor dogs. So, your dog is now in an environment that may as well be a different planet for him. Your goal will not be so much how to "break" him of the behavior as to how you can teach him men and children aren't threatening.
If he simply ignores them except if they try to approach, you should ask your son and grandkids to ignore your dog completely, except to click their tongues and then toss a treat periodically. They should not look at him, reach for him, or talk to him. Over time, if he becomes more comfortable with them (they aren't doing anything frightening AND treats appear when they are around), they can begin to sit on the floor and encourage him to approach them to get treats. When he sniffs their hands, they can gently tickle him under the chin. If he backs up, it is too early to pet him. If he likes it, he will move toward them and ask for more petting. They should always pet him under the chin and on the chest--NEVER on the top of the head.
If he is never calm while they are in the house, you should simply gate or close him in a bedroom. Give him a nice chew toy or food-dispensing toy (Busy Buddies, Premier.com) to keep him occupied. You also can do a combination of allowing him to get some treats from the visitors and then place him in his safe haven.
Be patient with this little guy. He did not receive any of the normal experiences pet dogs usually receive as puppies when they grow up in a typical household. He was kept in a cage and now is in a vastly new situation, just trying to learn the ropes. Thank you adopting him! Understanding his behavior is the first step in finding ways of helping him adjust.
Good luck,
Miss Madeline Clare |
| Question: Counter-Surfing Dog! |
Dear Miss Madeline-Clare,
The family dog, who is @ 4 yrs. old, repeatedly 'counter surfs' and sticks his head in the sink, looking for scraps. I have poured hot sauce in the sink but this doesn't deter him. I keep a spray bottle of water and vinegar by the sink and spray him if he's caught doing either behavior. Any other ideas?? Thank you in advance.
Rachel |
| Answer: |
Dear Rachel,
Your dog has learned that when you are around, it is "unsafe" to scavenge for food in the sink and on the counter. He gets sprayed! However, when there is no one around, he can safely collect the food. You'll need to do two things.
First, try your best to keep tantalizing food off of the counter and out of the sink. Or, keep the dog out of the kitchen. The second thing you can do is make use of an "environmental punisher." In other words, something that causes an unintended, unpleasant consequence consistently and immediately when he jumps up when you are not there.
The "Scat Mat" delivers an electrostatic charge and can be used on counters. I tell people to NOT plug it in the first few days. Then, put a plant or some item you plan on keeping on the counter and THEN turn on the mat. Your dog will hopefully associate the new plant or object with the unpleasant outcome. Over time, you can gradually remove the scat mat but leave the plant or object as a signal to the dog that jumping up might not be too safe. If you just put the Scat Mat on the counter and turn it on, some dogs learn to only stay away when the Scat Mat is there.
Alternatively, you can "booby trap" the counter. Stack up some lightweight aluminum pans so that when he jumps up to take the bait you leave out, everything comes crashing down and scares him. This would not be a great idea if he is a very nervous dog. Finally, there is something called the "Scraminal" that sets of an annoying alarm when the motion detector is activated. All of these devices can be found through the Internet.
Best of luck,
Miss Madeline-Clare |
| Question: Dog Allergies or Stress? |
Hi Miss Madeline!
We recently adopted a Maltese mix who was rescued from a puppy mill - he's between 2 and 3 years old.
I'm pretty sure it's due to anxiety (he's still afraid of so many things and easily startled) but I can't get him to stop chewing on his front legs. I keep giving him a toy to chew on whenever I catch him doing it, but he doesn't always want the toy or will chew on it for a minute or two and then go back to chewing his leg.
Do you have any suggestions???
Thank you!
Debbie
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| Answer: |
Hi Debbie,
The first thing you need to do is make sure there is not a physical problem causing this. If it is both legs, there is a chance he has allergies. Dogs tend to itch when they have inhalant allergies rather than have runny noses and red eyes like people.
If he's been thoroughly evaluated (often it takes a trip to the veterinary dermatologist to completely work-up a skin problem), and the problem still exists, it may be related to stress and be a compulsive disorder. Generally, dogs with compulsive disorders require medication. Trying to identify situations that trigger the chewing and making them less stressful may help. You also may need to offer extremely exciting chew toys, like rawhides (if he can tolerate them), food-stuffed Kong Toys or marrow bones (peanut butter, squeeze cheese, canned dog food are good stuffings), or other "puzzle" toys may be very helpful. Look up "Busy Budd" toys--it is a great line of very interesting toys for dogs.
If he is not causing any lesions on his skin, I would just continue to distract and redirect him to other activities for his mouth. If he is causing lesions (hair loss, sores, infection), you should have him seen by your veterinarian.
Good luck,
Miss Madeline-Clare |
| Question: Cats, Food and Babies |
Hello.
Thank you for making your services available through the Montgomery County Humane Society. Since I adopted 2 kittens can I ask more than one question?
In Nov 2007 we adopted 2 male kittens. We brought Chip home first and waited for him to get over the kennel cough prior to introducing the second kitten a month later. At first Chip was a submissive, seemingly perfect cat. Now that the second kitten joined the family he is manic over his food. Chip is 3 months older than the other kitten and he is the bully so there is no competition over the food posed to him. Honestly he is very manic -- trying to knock the bowl out of our hands, jumping on the counters, ripping into the bag of dry or wolfing down the wet before we can get it out of the can. I place his food down first so he feels as if he is the alpha cat. Even after he has eaten he still is often on the counters or in the sink looking for food. Chip is a year old male and he gets a 3 oz can of wet in the morning and 1/4 cup of dry at night. What can we do to get him to calm down around food time?
Our second kitten Ninja is 9 months old and was brought into the house a month after Chip arrived. Ninja at first was skittish and would run and hide. When Ninja first arrived he clawed through the bottoms of a chair and a couch to hide in the springs. Three months later he has come out of his shell and no longer runs away to hide from Chip - he fights back. Our only problem with him is he continues to scratch at our furniture and digs holes in the bottoms of all of our new furniture and mattresses. How can we stop him from further damaging our furniture?
Last question...We are expecting a baby in May. Are there any tips on integrating a new baby with the cats?
thank you for your help.
Elizabeth |
| Answer: |
Dear Elizabeth,
It sounds like Chip may have had some deprivation in his life and is very concerned about food. Has he always been manic or has this just developed since "competition" in the form of another cat was introduced? One approach is to keep his food and bowls in a small room with a door, such as a bathroom or laundry room. You can purchase a "roll n treat" ball that holds dry cat food and releases it as the cat bats it around. Keep a "roll n treat" filled and handy so that as you enter the room to prepare the food, you toss him the ball outside of the room to keep him occupied while you prepare the food. Then, allow him to enter the room once you've put the food down so he can eat in privacy. You can then feed your other cat somewhere else so he is finished before you open the door to let Chip out.
For scratching, you will have to get something that discourages Ninja from getting onto those pieces of furniture. Scat mats, which deliver a static electric charge, and Ssscat motion detectors, which deliver a burst of compressed air, can be effective in keeping cats away from certain areas. Also closing doors to certain rooms can help. Vinyl carpet runners with the nubby side up can be placed across sofas or on chairs. Otherwise, you may need to consider applying Soft Paws claw caps. These are glued to the trimmed nails and protect furniture but fall off after a few weeks.
For introduction of animals to babies, I have a handout I can mail to you if you will call my office (301)947-3333 and request it. Parents of infants will often install a screen door or some type of free standing screen to keep cats out of the nursery. It is thought that some cats can lie on top of children in the same way they sleep with adults or sit in laps and the weight on a baby's chest can inhibit breathing. Also, there is some concern with allergy. So, it is a good thing to never let cats in with a baby unsupervised.
Good luck,
Miss Madeline-Clare |
| Question: Barking Dog |
Hi Miss Madeline,
Our 12-year bichon (who is otherwise as sweet and lovable as can be) starts barking at my wife in the afternoon and doesn't stop until around 5:00 PM or so. My wife is being driven to distraction. She takes him out on walks but he keeps on barking when home again. We have tried time-outs in another room. But as soon as he comes out, he starts barking again. He does this both before and after his afternoon feeding - we feed him twice a day.
Both of us would appreciate your suggestions.
Many thanks,
Alan |
| Answer: |
Dear Alan,
If your dog has done this for his entire life, it is probably just attention-seeking behavior. If he stops barking when he is in timeout, I would simply leave him in his time-out place until 5 pm. Give him some chew toys to entertain him while he is confined. In fact, your wife may just want to plan to put him in his time-out place at a specific time everyday, just as you would put a baby down for a nap.
If this is a new behavior, it may be related to a medical problem if there is no new change in his environment to explain it (change in owner's schedule, etc.) He should be checked out by your vet if this is the case. Sometimes changes in hearing and sight can make dogs more needy and clingy. Painful conditions can do the same.
Good luck!
Miss Madeline- Clare |
| Question: Reactive Dog |
We have adopted two dogs from Montgomery County shelter. They are great dogs, but Jake our black lab has started to charge other dogs when he is on and when he is off the leash. He has a loud bark, but has not bitten any dogs yet. He seems to go from very calm to super excited whenever he sees another dog. Finn our other lab is fine around other dogs and is fine on and off of the leash. Jake is a full lab and is a sweetheart in the house.
I am willing to do whatever it takes to help him. I am a Cesar Millan fan, but positive reinforcement does not seem to work. Is an electric collar an option. Please send me some info.
Thanks,
Rob |
| Answer: |
Dear Rob,
Many adult dogs are fearful or threatened by unfamiliar dogs. This can be because of poor/absent socialization during their sensitive period (3-16 weeks of age), a bad experience with another dog, or genetic make-up. Sometimes, it can be a combination of several things. With regard to Cesar Millan, he is a telegenic person with a charismatic personality who makes an entertaining television show. His techniques are often counterproductive and certainly not positive reinforcement, by any stretch. The Humane Society has been a vocal critic of his techniques.
Having said that, it is important to realize that Jake becomes agitated when he sees other dogs because he views them as a threat. Happy, relaxed dogs don't growl, snarl, snap, or bite. It is an involuntary reaction and relates to his emotional state rather than a training issue, per se. Changing this behavior involves you teaching Jake how to remain calm and then expose him to gradually more provocative situations involving other dogs. Sometimes the use of tools like a Gentle Leader Head Collar (Premier.com) can give you more control. www.ABRIonline.org has some excellent videoclips of the use of the Gentle Leader for dogs who react aggressively.
This summer there will be a "Reactive Dog" class at Capital Dog Training. Visit www.yourdogsfriend.info for information on this class, which might be an excellent thing for Jake. There is also a list of trainers who use appropriate (and real) positive reinforcement techniques. I would caution you against the use of an electric collar. It can vastly worsen aggression. Jake is reacting this way because he views other dogs as a terrible threat and if he gets shocked every time he reacts, he may simply associate the shock with the presence of other dogs and his anxiety and reactivity worsen. I have also seen dogs "post electronic collar" who have attacked their owner or the family dog walking with them when they've been shocked.
In some cases, antianxiety medication used in conjunction with training can be helpful. Often the dog can be weaned off of the medication once the dog has learned to relax and respond appropriately to other dogs. You almost never can change reactive dogs like this to dogs who are friendly with unfamiliar dogs. What you hope to do is help them become neutral in their behavior.
Good luck with Jake,
Miss Madeline-Clare |
| Question: Dog Afraid Of Visitors |
Good evening,
We have a 1 year old male mini schnauzer that we adopted from the Humane Society here in Bloomington and he was rescued from a Puppy Mill in Southern IL. We have had him for about 3 weeks. He has done beautifully with every new change except that he barks and backs up at my 2 sons that are 21 and 18 and large football player size. We have tried ignoring him, no eye contact, NO and nothing has worked so far. He does not bark at me or much at my husband that is also large size.
Friends of my sons have come in the door and he doesn't give them a second look. We also have another 5 year old male mini schnauzer.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Dawn |
| Answer: |
Hi Dawn,
Your dog sounds like he is frightened of your boys. Do they live with you all of the time or are they students, and home more sporadically? The best thing you can do is try to teach your dog not to be afraid of them. This is done in a variety of ways. One way is to teach your dog to sit and stay for really tasty treats. Once he's very good at this, you can keep him looking at you for treats as one of your sons walks through the room you're in but at a distance that doesn't trigger the barking. He should walk slowly at first, but over time (days to weeks) he can get closer and move faster. You'll want to keep your dog focused on you by holding treats up to your face and saying "watch me." Keep a leash on him just to keep him under control.
The other thing your boys should do is carry around treat containers and whenever they are near the dogs, they should shake the container and toss treats toward the dogs. Making themselves small and still (sitting on the floor, even lying on the floor) will make them less threatening. Looking at, speaking to, and reaching for your dog are all threatening behaviors and should be avoided until your dog is comfortable with your sons.
You may wish to go to www.ABRIonline.org and view some of the videoclips on visitors coming to the house. Although your dog is fine with visitors, the techniques demonstrated, using the Gentle Leader head collar, may be helpful for you. You can do the same thing with just a leash on the collar, but it is not quite as effective at controlling the dog's head.
Yelling at and punishing dogs like this usually only worsen their fear. You've got to build up his trust with your sons.
If you feel you need to consult a trainer for this, visit yourdogsfriend.info for a list of trainers who use positive reinforcement techniques rather than punishment based techniques.
Good luck,
Miss Madeline-Clare |
| Question: Dog Afraid of Men |
Dear Miss Madeline-Clare,
My husband and I adopted a rescued, puppy mill dog in Mid December '07. He's part bichon and part cocker and is about a year old. We also have a 7 year old yellow female lab. The puppy mill dog does great with our lab but Hank, the puppy mill dog, has had issues (fear) with my husband since the beginning. The foster mom (only had Hank 3 weeks) thought he was just scared of her husband due to his police uniform. It isn't the uniform, it is a "guy thing". Knowing this, we've tried to be very patient with Hank but he is barking more and more to the point of constantly barking at my husband whenever he moves anywhere in the house. As long as he sits or we put a leash on Hank, Hank is quiet.
Lord, we can't move. This is a very bad situation and I've tried working with Hank firmly stating "calm" of "shhh" with my hand toward his face. He calms until I take two steps away. This is becoming a nightmare . . . help?????
PS I can bring Hank to my husband and set him beside him and Hank will tolerate the petting but that is it. Toleration only and he never relaxes with this. Just escapes as soon as he can.
Tracey |
| Answer: |
Dear Tracey,
It sounds like your dog is phobic of men. Poor or absent opportunities to have been socialized coupled with potentially negative experiences with male caretakers could be contributing to it. One thing you can do is have your husband completely ignore Hank but toss treats near him every time your husband enters a room or Hank approaches him.
Teaching Hank to sit for treats so he can engage in predictable "command-response-reward" routine everytime he encounters your husband can also help. Also teaching him to do something like "go to your bed" for a treat can be used so that when he begins barking, you can give him an alternative behavior in which to engage.
If he is under control when leashed, keep a leash on him when he is supervised. Having your husband feed him may also help. Forcing him to be pet by your husband is not a good idea. He has to be comfortable with it for it to be helpful. It is possible you will need professional help in teaching Hank to relax (down stay for treats) with increasing distractions. Once he has this mastered, you can introduce triggers, such as your husband walking progressively closer. But, this has to be done with proper technique to prevent a worsening of the problem, so you will need a trainer who is well versed in behavior modification techniques.
You can call my office 301-947-3333 and we can recommend some trainers. It is possible that Hank will need an antianxiety medication to help him make the transition from a puppy mill dog to a family pet. You can speak with your regular veterinarian about this or go to www.a vsabonline.org to find a veterinarian in your area who sees behavior cases.
Good luck,
Miss Madeline-Clare |
| Question: |
Hi.
I adopted my cat from the humane society when he was about 9 wks old. Since he turned 1, he's been peeing periodically in different areas of my house in addition to his litter box. Most of the time he uses the litter box, but everyso often he pees in one of the three areas he's chosen around the house. The cat is 6 yrs. old now and I cannot figure out what causes this behavior. He does it whether his litter box has been freshly cleaned, in use for a few days or on the verge of being dirty (we never allow it to get dirty and scoop it daily). We've tried cleaning the area with vinegar, and commercial products available over the counter as well as those used by the professionals. It doesn't seem to help. It's very frustrating. We would like to change the carpeting wher ethe damage has been the most extreme, but are afraid of spending all the money on the new carpeting to have him ruin it again. Any advice on how to change his behavior is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Regina |
| Answer: |
Hi Regina,
To help your cat, the first thing that must be done is diagnose why the cat is urinating outside of the box. Is it marking behavior or is it simple toileting behavior? Marking tends to be done on vertical surfaces (against walls, chair legs, back of couch, etc.) although it can be on horizontal surfaces. Marking is generally in small volumes rather than a full emptying of the bladder. Marking also will often occur in socially significant places, like on the shoes of a visitor, next to a door or window, on the bed of another pet in the house, while toileting tends t | |
