County Animal Shelter

240.773.5960

14645 Rothgeb Drive

Rockville, MD 20850

Hours to Visit

With the Animals

Mon, Tues Thurs, Fri:

noon-7pm

Closed Wednesdays

Sat & Sun: noon-5pm

Business Hours and Looking For Lost Pets

Mon, Tues Thurs, Fri:

10am-7pm

Closed Wednesdays

Sat & Sun: 10am-5pm

Directions

Ask the Behavior Expert

Online Behavior Assistance

Questions

&

Answers

Dear Dr. Meyers,

We've had our rescue dog for about 3 weeks and are having trouble with him at night (or, actually, in the early morning). We have been putting him in a crate overnight, which is how he was sleeping at his foster home, and he had a high degree of success there. The crate is in the kitchen, and he doesn’t seem to mind it. We leave it open all day, and he will wander in and out periodically. He will go to bed in the crate quietly, but he is consistently waking up around 5 (and some times earlier) and barking continuously. I don’t think it’s a housebreaking issue -- he barks no matter when his last walk was, he doesn't have accidents in the crate if we ignore his barking, and he always takes his time when he eventually does go out before he finds just the right place to go.

I guess this means he’s barking from separation anxiety or something similar. We have tried ignoring the barking (so as not to reward that behavior with attention), but after 20 minutes the barking starts to sound very frantic (rather than just, “hey, I’m awake!” kind of barking), and he starts thrashing around. He can actually move the crate several feet across the floor with all of his thrashing. At that point, I feel that I have to go get him because I don't want him to hurt himself or get too far into a hyper, frenetic state of mind. But that is probably only encouraging him to do it again the next morning. We would love to get him on a good sleeping routine that works for the whole family, but I'm not sure how to do this. We try our best to tire him out in the evenings with walks and toys, but this apparently isn’t enough to get him to sleep through the night. How can we get him to rest quietly until it’s time for us to get up?

Thanks! Diana

Hi Diana,

You didn't mention how old your dog is. That can sometimes be important. At any age, it is possible he is just waking up and bored and lonely or possibly hungry. The bored and lonely may be particularly possible if he has lived with other dogs or in the shelter environment for a significant period of time. 

Here are a few things to try. First, you might put a crate in your bedroom.  Dogs like sleeping with their social partners and he may simply be lonely. Second, he may be hungry. You might try feeding him a snack before bed, something with a little fat in it, as that helps with satiety. A few small pieces of cheese for doing some basic obedience commands might be helpful. The last thing is to make sure he has some interesting chew toys in his crate, so if he does wake up, he might have something to do. You may want to give him a Kong Toy with some peanut butter or cheese smeared in it when you put him in the crate at night for bed to help him wind down. Finally, you can speak with your veterinarian about giving a mild sedative, like Benadryl, before bed. Make sure you talk to your vet about the dose first and use a product that only contains Benadryl without any other cold or allergy products.

If he is an older dog and can be trusted, you may want to try to let him sleep outside of the crate in your bedroom, once he's slept in there a few nights successfully in the crate. Give him a really comfortable dog bed and he might not want to get up as early.

I agree that you need to NOT ignore him when he becomes panicked.  Dogs can begin to develop fear associated with their crates if they are permitted to panic in their crates. 

Good luck with your new dog!

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,

My friend has a cat that drives her crazy.

She says he is very sweet, but he does the following:

--Growls as soon as his dish of food is about 6 inches from the floor and continues to growl off and on until he's done eating.

--Jumps on the kitchen table and counter tops though she says she continuously tells him to get down and will also punish him with a "time out" (she puts him in his room for about 10 minutes).

-- He also steals her food!  She said she made a sandwich for herself and just turned and there he was on the counter with part of the sandwich in his mouth. He growled very badly as she took the food from him. She said she thought he was going to bite her because the growl was so nasty, but he didn't. This happened three times and now she has to be very careful to see where he is whenever there is food around. This has happened right after he has eaten his own meal.

He is only a little over 2 years old. Her neighbor had him before and seriously neglected him and there was some abuse -- mainly with their children terrorizing him. He was left outside almost continuously and was hit by a car once. They didn't want to take care of him afterwards but people really made them realize it was their fault.  They never got the follow-up operation he needed -- my friend did and footed the bill.

When I see the cat, he is very friendly and loving. He is not afraid of people which is surprising after his first year of life. She has had him over a year now and doesn't know what to do with him. She has other pets (they all get along).

Diane

Dear Diane,

It sounds like this cat has an issue with food, probably as a result of neglect and the hunger he has suffered in the past. To help the cat relax when the food bowl is placed on the floor, the owner can hold out a spoon with canned food or squeeze cheese on it and keep the cat focused on licking that as she lowers the bowl onto the floor.  She should keep her arm with the spoon stretched out so the cat is kept a few feet away from the bowl as she lowers it. Alternatively, if the cat likes dry food or treats, she can toss a small handful onto the floor a few feet away from the bowl as she lowers it. Once the cat is eating from the bowl, the owner should leave him alone. After a few weeks, when he's relaxed a bit with the new routine, she can pass by the eating cat, shake a treat box, and toss him a treat. She should make sure she stays a "safe" distance from the cat, i.e., far enough away that the cat is not threatened enough to growl. The goal is to teach the cat that his owner is to be trusted and will not take his food from him. In fact, her approach predicts a good thing happening ... treats!

As far as the counter jumping goes, this too seems to related to food-seeking. She should try a device such as the "Scat Mat," which delivers a mild electrostatic charge, or "Ssscat," a motion activated compressed air can. When she first places the device on the counter, she should not turn it on. After a day or so, then she can turn it on.  In this way, the cat is less likely to make the association between the device and the mild shock or the air burst. These devices are far more effective than scolding. Firstly, the cat doesn't associate the scary event with his owner, which can cause fear issues. Secondly, the device is extremely consistent and works whether the owner is present or not. The device should be kept in place for several weeks to months, and then gradually faded as the cat stop jumping on the counter.

The food-stealing is also obviously also related to the cat's food issues. When the owner is eating, that would be a good time to divert the cat's attention to a food-dispensing toy. Things like a Roll-n-Treat filled with dry food or treats or a Kitty Kong Toy smeared with canned cat food or squeeze cheese can keep the cat occupied while his owner eats her own dinner undisturbed.

Most importantly, the owner should make sure the cat has been examined by a veterinarian and is healthy because some medical conditions cause an increase in hunger and can make food-guarding and food-seeking behaviors worse. For a young cat, intestinal parasites (often referred to as worms) would certainly be a possibility.

I hope these tips are helpful to your friend and her cat!

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,

Our 4-year-old toy poodle, Chloe, has been a joy. She loves each  member of our family, obeys commands, plays well with other dogs and she is  generally a happy camper.

She has shown no food aggression -- we can move her bowls, even while she is eating; however, if she happens upon something dropped, such as a piece of candy  or a food scrap that she shouldn't have, she growls and shows her teeth and will  snap aggressively.

Lately, she has developed a similar reaction to a different  situation.

Chloe has always slept nicely on our bed. Suddenly, she is growling  and biting at us if she is disturbed while sleeping, either because we move or  she perceives we are about to. She has also done this if she has fallen  asleep on a couch -- without provocation, she will just start growling and  snap at us.

I can sometimes 'talk' her through this by addressing her softly, yet firmly, if I hear her growl before she nips. A second after exhibiting this aggression, she reverts to her happy, sweet self. I am guessing  this is a power situation. In situations other than those aforementioned, I am the alpha dog of the pack. Your thoughts, insights and  suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you. Jan

Dear Jan,

Chloe sounds like she has "grown up," meaning she's reached social maturation. The reason she growls when she finds something, like food or candy, is that history has taught her you take these items.  In the dog world, it goes something like "if it is in my mouth or 12 inches from my mouth, it's mine."  Chloe simply has learned, from her perspective, that you "steal" these wonderful things she's found fair and square. So, you'll need to teach her to give things to you. 

To do this, start with toys and things she's not too possessive of.  Hold out a really good treat, ask her to drop it, give her the treat as you pick up the item, and then GIVE THE ITEM BACK. Do this 100 times in a variety of situations, and she'll learn that it is a win-win situation. If she finds something, you'll be able to "trade" her for it. 

For the growling on the bed or couch, she has a similar motivation.  She doesn't want to be disturbed. In these cases, I simply recommend that she not be allowed to sleep on the bed or the couch. To teach her this, you may want to tether her (only under supervision!!) so she can't jump on the bed or crate her if she likes a crate. Make sure you give her a comfy dog bed to sleep on as an alternative to the couch or bed.

Do not punish her when she growls. Although it may seem counterintuitive, if you punish a dog for growling, the dog will often just learn to go right for the bite! Either remove the trigger for the growling or desensitize the dog to the trigger. The first recommendation is an example of desensitization. The second is eliminating the trigger. If the problem persists, you'll need to consult a professional who understands learning theory and normal dog behavior.

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,

My husband and I rescued a one year old Westie male this past April.  He was given up by his owners to Westie Rescue of Maryland for biting their 6 year old boy (after being put in a head lock and dragged by said 6 year old.)  He's an amazing boy -- so full of energy and life -- but he growls at us a lot: when he's tired, when he's eating, when one person is holding/petting him and someone else tries to touch him. How can we stop this behavior? It's gotten less with us, but he still growls at strangers and children pretty quickly. 

We've heard that abused dogs need to be handled more delicately, but we don't want to be passive about this. Nor do we want him terrified of us. Help!

Susie

Dear Susie,

If your dog has never bitten since you've had him, you can try these recommendations. If he has bitten, I would recommend you see a professional. 

Talking with your veterinarian would be a good place to start. If it is just growling, you'll need to work on the premise that growling is the most polite way a dog has to communicate to you that he is feeling uncomfortable or threatened. So, we never punish a growling dog as this can create a dog who learns that growling is ineffectual. Those dogs can turn into dogs who don't warn, which is highly dangerous. So, if your dog growls, you need to either eliminate the triggers for the growling or desensitize him to the triggers. 

Perhaps you need to have an early bedtime for him. Simply don't bother him after 8 pm or whenever him seems to become irritable. If he will go into a crate or a bedroom, even better. 

For growling around the food bowl, practice walking by at a safe distance, hold a treat up to your eyes and say "watch me" and toss the treat toward him. If he growls, don't toss the treat and stay farther away the next time. The goal is to teach him that your approach predicts good things and you should gradually begin to get closer. Not only aren't you taking his food, but you're giving him something even better. 

As for growling at children and strangers, he's frightened. Don't force him to interact with anyone casually. Instead, if you have visitors to your home, allow him to approach them while they are seated. They should not look at, speak to, or try to pet him. They can hold a treat in their hand by their side and let him sniff their hand and take the treat. They can test if he wants to be pet by tickling him under the chin when he sniffs their hand after the treat is gone. He will move in confidently to get more petting if he likes it but back off without feeling threatened if he doesn't like it. Chances are, he will need to get to know people slowly. He should always be permitted to approach them rather than them approaching him. 

People should never bend over him and/or try to pet him on top of the head, these are very frightening approaches. The best approach is to associate good things with strangers and allow him to progress at his own pace. He may end up being an introvert and really only feel comfortable with his family. Alternatively, he may come out of his shell when he learns people are not threatening.

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,

I have 2 dogs that were adopted from the Montgomery County shelter. My problem is with our 9-year-old mixed-breed Terrier. She's never liked strangers in the house, but she usually tolerates them and even warms up to them over time. She barks like crazy when they first arrive, but then she calms down.

She has never bitten or attacked anyone. We usually have had neighbors take care of our dogs when we had to work late or if we were away. However, the neighbor's children have grown up and now we're trying a new dog-walking service. 

We introduced the dog walker to our dogs and both dogs seemed OK. The trouble is that when the dog-walker enters the house when we're not home, our Terrier carries on so much, that the walker can't/won't go near her. She won't accept food or any friendly gestures -- she won't even go outside for a potty break when he arrives. Her growls are very threatening. (The other dog, an 11-month lab puppy is fine with the dog walker.)

Is there a way to overcome this behavior so we can safely leave her in the care of someone else? She's pretty docile when groomed, but she hasn't been kenneled in many years.

Thanks. Pam

Dear Pam,

It sounds as though your dog has territorial aggression. Usually these types of dogs are not amenable to dog-walking services. The problem is your dog doesn't understand that these strangers have your permission to come in. And, territorial behavior is often accompanied by a healthy helping of fear, as well. You may be successful in having someone develop a relationship with your dog by coming over regularly. But, for an older dog who is slow to warm up to people, this would be likely to take a long time and may not ultimately be successful. Unfortunately, you will probably have to find another alternative, such as a boarding kennel or having your dogs stay at someone else's home.

If you do go with boarding, it is a good idea to introduce dogs to a

boarding kennel slowly. Try a day board once or twice prior to leaving them overnight.

Discuss your concerns with the kennel manager.

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,

I adopted a cat last spring. When I brought him home he scratched my furniture and slowly but surely destroyed my curtains. 

I have tried using a water spray bottle, a tin can full of screws to shake at him and even purchased no-scratch sprays. I have also tried scratching boxes and scratching posts in the areas he likes to scratch, but he is not interested. I even put cat nip on them.

He now scratches my clothes hamper and rugs. He also likes to chew on boxes and desperately wants to go outside.

We are getting ready to move this summer and I really do not want him tearing up our new house or furniture. I don't want to declaw him or give him up since he really is a very loveable cat and we all love him.

Do you have any suggestions on how I can get him to stop scratching and how I can help him adjust to our new home this summer?

Thank you for your help. Karen

Dear Karen,

Scratching is a normal behavior in cats, allowing them to exercise their claws, remove the claw sheath, and visually mark territory. It is a problem when it causes destruction.

What you will need to do is create very attractive scratching areas that are appropriate and prevent scratching to inappropriate areas by using barriers or other devices to make them unattractive. 

If your cat likes the hamper and rug, you may want to make some "homemade" scratching surfaces by nailing or stapling materials that are similar to the rug or hamper onto scratching boards or posts. Make sure you place these "legal" scratching surfaces in areas that are socially significant like near the door or in common areas close to where a cat is currently scratching. Also, pay attention to providing both horizontal and vertical surfaces. 

Now, to stop the scratching in the inappropriate areas, you'll have to make them unavailable or unattractive. You may need to "redecorate" so you have shorter window treatments that the cat can't access.

You also may wish to use devices like "Ssscat" or a "Scat Mat."  Ssscat is a motion detector on a can of compressed air, which will beep and then spray air if the cat gets near it. The Scat Mat will deliver an electrostatic charge if the cat steps on it.

A Vinyl carpet runner, turned upside down so the nubby sides are up, can also prevent cats from positioning themselves to scratch (for example, along the back of the couch). 

A variety of plastic furniture coverings are available to protect furniture. Failing this, you can use "Soft Paws," which are nail caps that are glued onto trimmed nails. They do fall off after a week or two, so they will have to regularly be reapplied.

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,

My husband, daughter and I live in a four feline household; all four of the cats are female. Three of the cats are very docile: an 18 year old named Mungojerrie and two one-and-a-half year old littermates, Misty and Callie. My fourth cat, Jenny, is a dominant two-and-a-half year old. [Note: Two years ago -- about six months after we adopted Jenny -- we lost our two other older cats to illness, Mungo's sister, Rumpelteazer, and Willy, a 14-year-old male, all three of whom lived with me from the time they were eight to ten weeks old.]

Mungo, Misty and Callie are all very docile; Jenny is much more of an alpha personality -- and, I would warrant, something of a bully. Misty and Callie often play with Jenny, and when she gets too rough with them, they become submissive. It is the relationship between Mungo and Jenny that concerns me.

After her sister died, Mungo became somewhat of a recluse, staying in my bedroom nearly all of the time. She occasionally ventures out, and when she does she appears very jumpy until she is back in the safety of my room. If at some point Jenny notices Mungo out of my room, Jenny pounces on her, and Mungo invariable runs back to my bedroom with Jenny hot on her trail. Once she gets back, Jenny leaves her alone until the next time.

My question is, what can I do to keep Mungo from being a virtual prisoner in her own home (she's lived in this house for 11 years, and with me for 18) and refocus Jenny's dominance behaviors onto the two younger cats, who are much more willing to interact with her? Jenny also shows dominance behavior at mealtime when she eats out of Misty's and Callie's food dishes and they just walk away. (I feed Mungo in my room with the door closed to protect her.) Occasionally I will squirt Jenny with a water bottle when I see her eating out of one of the other cats' food dishes, but I haven't been terribly consistent and I'm not even sure if this is a good strategy.

Suggestions? 

Jerilyn

Dear Jerilyn,

Intercat aggression cases can be very difficult to manage. It sounds like Mungo is a timid cat and losing her two companions has affected her confidence interacting with the other cats. For cats like Jenny, when they see another cat show signs of fear, such as hissing or running, it acts as a trigger for their aggression. 

As time goes by, the two cats -- the victim and the bully -- each learn their part of the "dance" and it becomes very reinforced. Often medication for one or both cats can be helpful. However, you can try some management techniques. For example, you may want to have some "Jenny-free" time. Sequester her and a cat or two that she gets along with in another part of the house and allow Mungo to have unencumbered access to the rest of the house. 

You can also put cat carriers with the doors removed and soft bedding in them to serve as safe retreats in the common parts of the house. You can also share the scents of all of the cats by sequentially rubbing their heads gently with a dry cloth. Do this daily and don't wash the cloth until absolutely necessary.

Another technique is to place a breakaway belled collar on Jenny so Mungo can hear her and know her whereabouts. Punishment is usually not effective. What you can do is teach Jenny that whenever she hears you shake a cat treat canister or crinkle a cat treat bag, she'll get a treat if she comes to you. If you see Jenny stare at Mungo, immediately distract and redirect her by making the noise and rewarding her for coming to you.

If these techniques are not successful, talk to your veterinarian. If you need to find a veterinarian in your area who sees behavior cases, go to AVSABonline.org

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,

New adult beagle/ bassett/ ? chews everything, not necessarily shoes. Any ideas? We've had the dog two weeks. He joins our other adult beagle. They get along very well. He is a happy and easy dog to have around except for the chewing.

Rosemary

Dear Rosemary,

It sounds like you have a normal dog who was just never properly chew trained. Unfortunately, it is easier to prevent this problem than to treat it, but it is certainly possible to do with time and patience.

First, you need to always supervise him when he is out and about in the house. That may mean keeping him on leash with you. Make sure you always provide him with at least 3 different types of chew toys wherever you take him (for example, a soft squeaky toy, a nylabone,  and a food-stuffed Kong Toy or other food-dispensing toy).

Rotate the toys to keep them interesting for him. If he begins to chew on something he shouldn't chew on, simply redirect him to an appropriate toy. You should not be angry at him, just calmly offer him the appropriate toy repeatedly. Dr. Ian Dunbar has a nice book called "After You Get Your Puppy," which give excellent advice about chew training your dog. Look into food-dispensing toys, like the Busy Buddy line. The Busy Buddy Bouncy Ball is a great hit with many dogs, as is the Roll-n-treat and food-stuffed Kong Toys.

In addition to providing appropriate chew toys, you'll need to prevent him from accessing "illegal" items. Every time he chews on something he shouldn't, the behavior is reinforced and it will be harder to fix. When you're gone, make sure he is confined to a "dog proofed" area.

It may take some time until he is reliable and there may always be some things that are just too tempting for him. But, you can make a big difference by setting him up to succeed through limiting his access to things he shouldn't have and providing him with an enticing array of appropriate chew items.

(back to the top)

Dr. Meyers ,

I adopted a dog that was rescued from a puppymill. He is a 3-year-old yorkie and we've had him since 1/5/08. Every time he sees my son he growls and runs away from him. He also does the same thing with my grandkids. What can we do to break him out of this behavior.

Teresa

Dear Teresa,

The first thing you need to think about is why your dog growls and runs when he sees your son and your grandkids. I don't know how old your son is, but I'll assume he is the adult father of the grandkids. 

The reason dogs growl is to communicate concern about a situation.  The reason they run is obvious, avoidance. So, putting those two things together, it is fairly clear that your little dog is terrified of your son and the grandkids. And, he probably has good reason to be. As a breeder at a puppy mill, he's lived his entire life in a cage. It is possible he's never seen any children and they simply frighten the heck out of him. The people who ran that puppy mill were men. It is likely, given the condition of the animals, that there was little affection or kindness offered to these poor dogs. So, your dog is now in an environment that may as well be a different planet for him. Your goal will not be so much how to "break" him of the behavior as to how you can teach him men and children aren't threatening.

If he simply ignores them except if they try to approach, you should ask your son and grandkids to ignore your dog completely, except to click their tongues and then toss a treat periodically. They should not look at him, reach for him, or talk to him. Over time, if he becomes more comfortable with them (they aren't doing anything frightening AND treats appear when they are around), they can begin to sit on the floor and encourage him to approach them to get treats. When he sniffs their hands, they can gently tickle him under the chin. If he backs up, it is too early to pet him. If he likes it, he will move toward them and ask for more petting. They should always pet him under the chin and on the chest -- NEVER on the top of the head.

If he is never calm while they are in the house, you should simply gate or close him in a bedroom. Give him a nice chew toy or food-dispensing toy (Busy Buddies, Premier.com) to keep him occupied.  You also can do a combination of allowing him to get some treats from the visitors and then place him in his safe haven.

Be patient with this little guy. He did not receive any of the normal experiences pet dogs usually receive as puppies when they grow up in a typical household. He was kept in a cage and now is in a vastly new situation, just trying to learn the ropes. Thank you adopting him! Understanding his behavior is the first step in finding ways of helping him adjust.

(back to the top)

Dear Rachel,

Your dog has learned that when you are around, it is "unsafe" to scavenge for food in the sink and on the counter. He gets sprayed!  However, when there is no one around, he can safely collect the food. You'll need to do two things. 

First, try your best to keep tantalizing food off of the counter and out of the sink. Or, keep the dog out of the kitchen. The second thing you can do is make use of an "environmental punisher." In other words, something that causes an unintended, unpleasant consequence consistently and immediately when he jumps up when you are not there. 

The "Scat Mat" delivers an electrostatic charge and can be used on counters. I tell people to NOT plug it in the first few days. Then, put a plant or some item you plan on keeping on the counter and THEN turn on the mat. Your dog will hopefully associate the new plant or object with the unpleasant outcome. Over time, you can gradually remove the scat mat but leave the plant or object as a signal to the dog that jumping up might not be too safe. If you just put the Scat Mat on the counter and turn it on, some dogs learn to only stay away when the Scat Mat is there. 

Alternatively, you can "booby trap" the counter. Stack up some lightweight aluminum pans so that when he jumps up to take the bait you leave out, everything comes crashing down and scares him. This would not be a great idea if he is a very nervous dog. Finally, there is something called the "Scraminal" that sets of an annoying alarm when the motion detector is activated. All of these devices can be found through the Internet.

(back to the top)

Hi Dr. Meyers!

We recently adopted a Maltese mix who was rescued from a puppy mill -- he's between 2 and 3 years old.

I'm pretty sure it's due to anxiety (he's still afraid of so many things and easily startled) but I can't get him to stop chewing on his front legs. I keep giving him a toy to chew on whenever I catch him doing it, but he doesn't always want the toy or will chew on it for a minute or two and then go back to chewing his leg.

Do you have any suggestions??? Thank you! Debbie

Hi Debbie,

The first thing you need to do is make sure there is not a physical problem causing this. If it is both legs, there is a chance he has allergies. Dogs tend to itch when they have inhalant allergies rather than have runny noses and red eyes like people.

If he's been thoroughly evaluated (often it takes a trip to the veterinary dermatologist to completely work-up a skin problem), and the problem still exists, it may be related to stress and be a compulsive disorder. Generally, dogs with compulsive disorders require medication. Trying to identify situations that trigger the chewing and making them less stressful may help. You also may need to offer extremely exciting chew toys, like rawhides (if he can tolerate them), food-stuffed Kong Toys or marrow bones (peanut butter, squeeze cheese, canned dog food are good stuffings), or other "puzzle" toys may be very helpful.  Look up "Busy Budd" toys -- it is a great line of very interesting toys for dogs.

If he is not causing any lesions on his skin, I would just continue to distract and redirect him to other activities for his mouth. If he is causing lesions (hair loss, sores, infection), you should have him seen by your veterinarian.

(back to the top)

Dear Elizabeth,

It sounds like Chip may have had some deprivation in his life and is very concerned about food.   

Has he always been manic or has this just developed since "competition" in the form of another cat was introduced? One approach is to keep his food and bowls in a small room with a door, such as a bathroom or laundry room. You can purchase a "roll n treat" ball that holds dry cat food and releases it as the cat bats it around.  Keep a "roll n treat" filled and handy so that as you enter the room to prepare the food, you toss him the ball outside of the room to keep him occupied while you prepare the food. Then, allow him to enter the room once you've put the food down so he can eat in privacy. You can then feed your other cat somewhere else so he is finished before you open the door to let Chip out.

For scratching, you will have to get something that discourages Ninja from getting onto those pieces of furniture. Scat mats, which deliver a static electric charge, and Ssscat motion detectors, which deliver a burst of compressed air, can be effective in keeping cats away from certain areas. Also closing doors to certain rooms can help. Vinyl carpet runners with the nubby side up can be placed across sofas or on chairs. Otherwise, you may need to consider applying Soft Paws claw caps. These are glued to the trimmed nails and protect furniture but fall off after a few weeks. 

For introduction of animals to babies, I have a handout I can mail to you if you will call my office 301.947.3333 and request it. Parents of infants will often install a screen door or some type of free standing screen to keep cats out of the nursery. It is thought that some cats can lie on top of children in the same way they sleep with adults or sit in laps and the weight on a baby's chest can inhibit breathing.  Also, there is some concern with allergy. So, it is a good thing to never let cats in with a baby unsupervised.

(back to the top)

Hi Dr. Meyers,

Our 12-year bichon (who is otherwise as sweet and lovable as can be) starts barking at my wife in the afternoon and doesn't stop until around 5:00 PM or so.  My wife is being driven to distraction.  She takes him out on walks but he keeps on barking when home again.  We have tried time-outs in another room. But as soon as he comes out, he starts barking again. He does this both before and after his afternoon feeding -- we feed him twice a day.

Both of us would appreciate your suggestions.

Many thanks, Alan

Dear Alan,

If your dog has done this for his entire life, it is probably just attention-seeking behavior. If he stops barking when he is in timeout, I would simply leave him in his time-out place until 5 pm. Give him some chew toys to entertain him while he is confined. In fact, your wife may just want to plan to put him in his time-out place at a specific time everyday, just as you would put a baby down for a nap.

If this is a new behavior, it may be related to a medical problem if there is no new change in his environment to explain it (change in owner's schedule, etc.) He should be checked out by your vet if this is the case. Sometimes changes in hearing and sight can make dogs more needy and clingy. Painful conditions can do the same.

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,

We have adopted two dogs from Montgomery County shelter. They are great dogs, but Jake, our black lab, has started to charge other dogs when he is on and when he is off the leash. He has a loud bark, but has not bitten any dogs yet. He seems to go from very calm to super excited whenever he sees another dog. Finn, our other lab, is fine around other dogs and is fine on and off of the leash. Jake is a full lab and is a sweetheart in the house.

I am willing to do whatever it takes to help him. I am a Cesar Millan fan, but positive reinforcement does not seem to work. Is an electric collar an option? Please send me some info. 

Thanks, Rob

Dear Rob,

Many adult dogs are fearful or threatened by unfamiliar dogs. This can be because of poor/absent socialization during their sensitive period (3-16 weeks of age), a bad experience with another dog, or genetic make-up. Sometimes, it can be a combination of several things. With regard to Cesar Millan, he is a telegenic person with a charismatic personality who makes an entertaining television show. His techniques are often counterproductive and certainly not positive reinforcement, by any stretch. The Humane Society has been a vocal critic of his techniques.

Having said that, it is important to realize that Jake becomes agitated when he sees other dogs because he views them as a threat. Happy, relaxed dogs don't growl, snarl, snap, or bite. It is an involuntary reaction and relates to his emotional state rather than a training issue, per se. Changing this behavior involves you teaching Jake how to remain calm and then expose him to gradually more provocative situations involving other dogs. Sometimes the use of tools like a Gentle Leader Head Collar (Premier.com) can give you more control.  www.ABRIonline.org has some excellent videoclips of the use of the Gentle Leader for dogs who react aggressively.

This summer there will be a "Reactive Dog" class at Capital Dog Training.  Visit www.yourdogsfriend.info for information on this class, which might be an excellent thing for Jake. There is also a list of trainers who use appropriate (and real) positive reinforcement techniques. I would caution you against the use of an electric collar.  It can vastly worsen aggression. Jake is reacting this way because he views other dogs as a terrible threat and if he gets shocked every time he reacts, he may simply associate the shock with the presence of other dogs and his anxiety and reactivity worsen. I have also seen dogs "post electronic collar" who have attacked their owner or the family dog walking with them when they've been shocked. 

In some cases, antianxiety medication used in conjunction with training can be helpful. Often the dog can be weaned off of the medication once the dog has learned to relax and respond appropriately to other dogs. You almost never can change reactive dogs like this to dogs who are friendly with unfamiliar dogs. What you hope to do is help them become neutral in their behavior.

(back to the top)

Hi Dawn,

Your dog sounds like he is frightened of your boys. Do they live with you all of the time or are they students, and home more sporadically?  The best thing you can do is try to teach your dog not to be afraid of them. This is done in a variety of ways. One way is to teach your dog to sit and stay for really tasty treats. Once he's very good at this, you can keep him looking at you for treats as one of your sons walks through the room you're in but at a distance that doesn't trigger the barking. He should walk slowly at first, but over time (days to weeks) he can get closer and move faster. You'll want to keep your dog focused on you by holding treats up to your face and saying "watch me."  Keep a leash on him just to keep him under control.

The other thing your boys should do is carry around treat containers and whenever they are near the dogs, they should shake the container and toss treats toward the dogs. Making themselves small and still (sitting on the floor, even lying on the floor) will make them less threatening. Looking at, speaking to, and reaching for your dog are all threatening behaviors and should be avoided until your dog is comfortable with your sons. 

You may wish to go to www.ABRIonline.org and view some of the videoclips on visitors coming to the house. Although your dog is fine with visitors, the techniques demonstrated, using the Gentle Leader head collar, may be helpful for you. You can do the same thing with just a leash on the collar, but it is not quite as effective at controlling the dog's head.

Yelling at and punishing dogs like this usually only worsen their fear.  You've got to build up his trust with your sons.

If you feel you need to consult a trainer for this, visit yourdogsfriend.info for a list of trainers who use positive reinforcement techniques rather than punishment-based techniques.

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,

My husband and I adopted a rescued puppy mill dog in mid December '07.  He's part bichon and part cocker and is about a year old. We also have a 7 year old yellow female lab. The puppy mill dog does great with our lab but Hank, the puppy mill dog, has had issues (fear) with my husband since the beginning. The foster mom (only had Hank 3 weeks) thought he was just scared of her husband due to his police uniform. It isn't the uniform, it is a "guy thing". Knowing this, we've tried to be very patient with Hank but he is barking more and more to the point of constantly barking at my husband whenever he moves anywhere in the house. As long as he sits or we put a leash on Hank, Hank is quiet.

Lord, we can't move. This is a very bad situation and I've tried working with Hank firmly stating "calm" of "shhh" with my hand toward his face. He calms until I take two steps away. This is becoming a nightmare ... help?????

PS. I can bring Hank to my husband and set him beside him and Hank will tolerate the petting but that is it. Toleration only and he never relaxes with this, just escapes as soon as he can.

Tracey

Dear Tracey,

It sounds like your dog is phobic of men. Poor or absent opportunities to have been socialized coupled with potentially negative experiences with male caretakers could be contributing to it. One thing you can do is have your husband completely ignore Hank but toss treats near him every time your husband enters a room or Hank approaches him. 

Teaching Hank to sit for treats so he can engage in predictable "command-response-reward" routine everytime he encounters your husband can also help. Also teaching him to do something like "go to your bed" for a treat can be used so that when he begins barking, you can give him an alternative behavior in which to engage.

If he is under control when leashed, keep a leash on him when he is supervised. Having your husband feed him may also help. Forcing him to be pet by your husband is not a good idea. He has to be comfortable with it for it to be helpful. It is possible you will need professional help in teaching Hank to relax (down stay for treats) with increasing distractions. Once he has this mastered, you can introduce triggers, such as your husband walking progressively closer. But, this has to be done with proper technique to prevent a worsening of the problem, so you will need a trainer who is well versed in behavior modification techniques. 

You can call my office 301-947-3333 and we can recommend some trainers. It is possible that Hank will need an anti-anxiety medication to help him make the transition from a puppy mill dog to a family pet.  You can speak with your regular veterinarian about this or go to www.a vsabonline.org to find a veterinarian in your area who sees behavior cases.

(back to the top)

Hi.
I adopted my cat from the humane society when he was about 9 wks old. Since he turned 1, he's been peeing periodically in different areas of my house in addition to his litter box. Most of the time he uses the litter box, but every so often he pees in one of the three areas he's chosen around the house. The cat is 6 yrs. old now and I cannot figure out what causes this behavior. He does it whether his litter box has been freshly cleaned, in use for a few days or on the verge of being dirty (we  never allow it to get dirty and scoop it daily). We've tried cleaning the area with vinegar, and commercial products available over the counter, as well as those used by professionals. It doesn't seem to help.  It's very frustrating. We would like to change the carpeting where the damage has been the most extreme, but are afraid of spending all the money on the new carpeting to have him ruin it again. Any advice on how to change his behavior is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Regina

Hi Regina,
To help your cat, the first thing that must be done is diagnose why the cat is urinating outside of the box. Is it marking behavior or is it simple toileting behavior? Marking tends to be done on vertical surfaces (against walls, chair legs, back of couch, etc.) although it can be on horizontal surfaces. Marking is generally in small volumes rather than a full emptying of the bladder. Marking also will often occur in socially significant places, like on the shoes of a visitor, next to a door or window, on the bed of another pet in the house, while toileting tends to occur in the same spot or few spots, often the same type of substrate. Also, marking may be preceded by some stress -- owner being away, altercation with another animal, visitor to the home.

Treating inappropriate toileting (not marking) involves finding out what your cat's dream litterbox would be. Offer a litter box buffet by given options of substrates, for example your current litter, unscented clumping litter, unscented non-clumping clay litter, corn-based litter, wheat based litter, etc. Offer these options in various litter boxes offered at the same time. Keep a log of which litter gets the most use.

Scoop the boxes once or twice daily and dump, wash (with hot water only -- no soap), and refill clumping litter once every 2 weeks and plain clay every 4-5 days. Often cats like large, plastic sweater boxes as litter boxes rather than boxes marketed as litter boxes.

Make the areas where he is currently going unattractive to him. Use an enzymatic cleaner (Anti Icky Poo is my favorite) and cover the areas with upside down clear vinyl carpet runners (so the nubby side is up). These can be found at Lowes and Home Depot on a big wheel ... the attendant will cut the length to your specification.

Punishment is never helpful in these cases. 

Is the cat only going on carpet? Have you had a urine sample checked for infection? If he only goes on carpet, you may want to put a bathmat in a litter box if he does not show an affinity for any commercial litters. But, we'll hope it doesn't come to that! You can ask for further help if it does.

P.S. Please see next question and answer

See MCHS article on litter box problems

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,
We share our home with a geriatric dog and two indoor cats: a 12-year-old neutered male American Shorthair and a newly adopted 4-year-old spayed female Persian mix. Aside from some playful swatting, they get along great. The rescued female has nearly perfect manners except for some attempts to claw the furniture. Our older male always had some occasional spraying issues, despite being neutered as a kitten. He's also clawed our furniture, despite the usual deterrents (squirts of water, shaking an aluminum can with a few pennies inside, and double stick tape, aluminum foil and balloons taped to the furniture) and having nice scratching posts available as a kitten.

Four years ago, after we bought our current house, we removed some of the old flooring and found urine stains in some corners, so it was apparent that the previous owner had a cat at one time. We also discovered a groundhog living under the sunroom. Our male cat began spraying these areas. But he's progressed beyond this and now sprays the furniture, walls, doors, carpeting -- basically anywhere he wants to. Within the past six months or so (even before the new kitty came along), he began spraying right in front of us! He's been to several vets and is in excellent health -- they attribute it to a behavioral problem. One recent vet suggested isolating and confining him to a small area for 3 weeks, which we did, but all it did was make him fat and grumpy. He came out and started up again. He's otherwise an extremely sweet and loving cat, but the situation is out of hand and is affecting our quality of life.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for this great service you are providing.

Lisa

Dear Lisa,
It sounds like the addition of the new cat may have exacerbated some social stress and is contributing to the worsening spraying. You didn't say how long ago you adopted her, but if it correlates chronologically, it is a good bet there is an association. Giving him adequate resources (multiple litter boxes, feeding and watering stations, resting spots) so there is no change for concern over resources.

Since your cat is older, he should be examined by a vet and have a CBC/chemistry panel, thryoid test (T4), and urinalysis. They may want to do a urine culture but a good study has shown that a urinary tract infection is not associated with spraying in cats.

If everything comes up normal, the best course of action would be medication for your cat. The  most effective medication is fluoxetine, which is generic Prozac. Most cats do extremely well with it and, in generic tablet form, it is very inexpensive.

Your vet is welcome to call my office (Veterinary Behavior Clinic 301.947.3333) if he or she has any questions about medicating spraying cats with fluoxetine.

You will also need to make the areas where he has sprayed (I assume you are truly describing spraying -- which is on vertical surfaces 4-6 inches from the ground) less accessible and interesting. You can use an enzymatic cleaner (Anti Icky Poo is the one I recommend) and place upside down carpet runner -- nubby side up on those areas as well.

P.S. See answer to question above also

See MCHS article on litter box problems

(back to the top)

Hi Anne,
I can't predict the future, of course, but I am somewhat pessimistic that neutering this cat will have a substantial positive effect on the dynamic among the cats. A well-established group of cats can be somewhat vulnerable to the introduction of a new cat -- especially an adult by whom they've already been traumatized. This cat obviously has lived outdoors but it is not clear if has ever lived indoors. It can be very difficult to transition outdoor cats to indoor cats, even if you don't have existing cats to make the situation more complicated.

While it is very tempting to try to take this cat in, you should take into account the quality of life your existing 4 cats enjoyed prior to the entrance of this cat into their lives. My best advice is to try to find someone who wants an indoor/outdoor cat. Sometimes barns (horse boarding) are welcoming of such cats.

I am also wondering how "friendly" this is cat is? Does he approach you and ask for petting? Do you get the impression he is feral? If he is feral, there are organizations that will help you find places for him. There are some trap and release programs. If he is truly socialized with people and capable of being a safe and happy pet, the kindest thing you might do is look for an appropriate home for him.

I'm sorry I may not be giving you the recommendation you wanted, but my experience seeing many cases of intercat aggression suggests it would be very difficult. If you are absolutely sure you want to try, you will probably need to medicate some or all of the cats. They would have to be kept completely separated and then gradually introduced in a manner that keeps everyone safe. Even with this approach, there is no guarantee the cats will ever get along. Occasionally, I do have clients who have to keep specific cats completely separated as a long-term management strategy.

More Helpful Hints on Introducing a New Pet to Your Current Pets

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,

My puppy is about 5 months old now and we have two other adult dogs. No matter what I do, I cannot get him to stop playfully biting at the other dogs faces, legs, and tails. It is not fun to the other dogs and I haven't found anything that will get him to stop. I have tried telling him no, putting him in the kennel and telling him no, tapping him on the nose and telling him no, what do I do?

Thanks, Paige C.

Dear Paige,

I recommend that you get the book "After You Get Your Puppy" by Dr. Ian Dunbar. Basically, your puppy is a normal, obnoxius, 5-month-old puppy who is doing normal, obnoxious, socially incorrect things that puppies do during their development. Most older dogs can't stand puppies -- at least for very long -- for this reason. 

It is your job to prevent this from happening by either keeping the puppy on a leash (tied to your waist, tied to furniture or hook in the wall), gated in a room with supervision away from the older dogs, or in a crate or exercise pen (dog playpen). Make sure he has plenty of exercise (with other puppies or young dogs if possible) but has periods of downtime scheduled in. Give him lots to do with puzzle toys (stuffed Kong Toys, marrow bones, etc.) Often people use dry kibble layered thinly with squeeze cheese or peanut butter, then freeze the Kong Toy in a zip lock bag. It will last longer. Other types of food dispensing toys include the Busy Buddy line (you can google it) or Roll-n-treat balls. Nylabones, tennis balls, soft toys, etc. should be rotated to keep this guy busy.

It is important he still have specified periods of playtime with the older dogs to hone his social skills, but he needs to be kept away when they've had enough. Remember, he won't be a puppy forever! This behavior will pass as he gets older.

Raising a puppy is not for the faint of heart but the time you put in now will come back a thousandfold in a well-behaved adult, if you do it right!  For now though, you need to make sure your puppy does not irritate you older dogs -- they're not the ones who brought him into the home.  8-)

(back to the top)

Dear Dr.
Thank you for reading this. I adopted an adult cat at the shelter about 2 months ago. The shelter had no information about this cat. I fear that she is not doing well at my house. We have 3 other cats and one dog. She ignores the dog. She likes one neutered male cat and tries to engage him in play. She dislikes the other two cats, one neutered male and one neutered female (the alpha cat). She engages in actual cat fights with the female. She is fearful and tentative about human contact. After really working with her, she will allow me to briefly pick her up and will walk on my body to get a treat but does not want to maintain any contact for long. She seems to want to be petted, but after a short time she will turn with a play "bite"  that ends with licking. At that point, I terminate any contact with her.  The other household members have been good to her but haven't  tried to work with her. Recently she has begun a rather alarming behavior of peeing on laundry (the cats are also fed in the laundry room) and occasionally pooping on a rug in the front hall. Revolting. I just hate it that she is miserable here but I am beginning to think that she cannot stay here anymore. I have never given an animal away before and this bothers me to admit defeat. Any suggestions for me?

Nancy B

Follow-up from owner: I want to thank you for taking time to send a personal note about my cat. I really appreciate the fact that you would take the time to help our cat. Turns out, we incorporated some of your suggestions and the cat has dramatically improved, with no more messes out of the box. Friendliness is also much improved and continues to be worked on (holding, carrying etc.) Once again you are a very special person to take time for us.  Sincerely,  NANCY B

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,

I am at my wits end with my pet. I have a small Pomeranian/ poodle/ terrier that I adopted at about 7 months old. I have had her for 8 years and have never been able to solve the housebreaking problems. She has cost me a lot of money in carpets. I have had to pull up my carpet from the family room and replace it with hardwood. I have thrown out thousands of dollars worth of area rugs -– after spending hundreds for repeated cleaning. I have spent thousands of dollars resurfacing and refininshing the hardwood on the first floor of the house and also completely redid the steps. The only place left to be ripped up is the bedroom level which smells like dog poop and urine. She has even began to soil all over the newly re-finished hardwood. I have used pet cleaning chemicals, I have crated her, used pet gates, walked her several times per day, monitored her feeding/watering schedule all to no avail. She is a wonderful little dog and that’s why I have put up with her all these years. I have also had to replace my refrigerator after pet dander damaged the motors -– that I do not blame her for. There is constant conflict in my home because of the soilings. I cannot afford  to have her destroy my home or my family. I am about to give her up for adoption. I am afraid that at 8 years old, if nothing has worked, she just has a stubborn problem that cannot be solved. Please help.

Erica  

Dear Erica,

It sounds like your dog has never been housetrained. It is difficult to train dogs who have been reinforced for eliminating in the house for so long, but not impossible. You just have to go back to housetraining 101.

When you are home, you need to keep her with you and supervise her at all times.  This may mean tying a long leash around your waist. If you see her sniffing like she is preparing to eliminate, immediately call out her name and scoop her outside or place her on her indoor toileting area (newspapers, puppy pad). Then reward her with a treat when she goes in the appropriate place. You'll need to take her out every hour for a walk or supervised time with you in the yard with her (not just let outside in the yard on her own). When she urinates or defecates, immediately give her a piece of delicious food (chicken, cheese, moist dog treat). 

When you are not home, she must be confined to a small area (X-pen, crate, gated room). She will urinate or defecate in your absence so be prepared.  She does not know any better. Place newspapers, puppy training pads, or diaper her in these situations. 

Never punish her if you find an accident. It never works and only makes the dog more nervous. Make sure you steam clean areas that have been soiled and use a product such as Anti Icky Poo to remove residual odors.

It is unlikely anyone will adopt her if she is not housetrained. It is a sad situation for a dog to be in, and one that the dog did not cause.  I hope that you are able to implement the changes and she responds. It is not impossible to housetrain an adult dog, it is just much more difficult.

(back to the top)

Dear Dr. Meyers,

I read your Puppy Mill Dog reply with interest, but my problem is slightly different. I live alone with my quiet and well-behaved four-year old Whippet, Kia, and my little rescue, Missie, an Italian Greyhound about 4 or 5 years old. After more than three months with me, she is still terrified of me. I know all about ignoring her, avoiding eye contact etc. I let her have the run of the house, but she invariably spends her days hidden somewhere. When I go upstairs, she dashes downstairs, and vice-versa. Should I try to keep her in the same room with me? I have tried that, and when I do, she runs in circles endlessly around the furniture. Sometimes, she will lie next to Kia on her cushion when I am sitting down reading or watching TV, but if I move a muscle, she’s up and running again. I must leave the room for her to eat, and I must not look at her when she does her business. Surprisingly, she is house-trained. I believe she learned the habit when she was in her foster home. I was told she used to follow the other dogs when they were let out, and then she would rush back in to her crate. Since she hides from me most of the time, I must call her to go outside, and, amazingly she comes when I call.

She has not used her crate from the day she arrived here, and that’s all right with me. However, to make sure she does not soil in the house during the night, and because she now dislikes her crate, I corner her as gently as I can before I go to bed, pick her up and put her to bed with Kia and me. I am often rewarded with a “nugget” when I pick her up, but that’s okay with me too. I just laugh it off. She is quite content to spend the night with me, even cuddling up to me. In the dark, I can stroke her and kiss her. I am not sure if she enjoys it, but she lets me do it with her face turned away from me. She is not tied down, and she does not run away. However, when the sun comes up, one look at me and it’s as if she has just seen a ghost! I have a male friend who drops in occasionally, and to my surprise she has let him stroke her! This really makes me feel like the monster she thinks I am!

I sought help from the local SPCA, and I was told to tie a cord around my waist and take her with me wherever I go. They suggested I start with half an hour and increase it gradually. The problem is that I don’t want to chase Missie around the house to tie a cord around her collar. I used to have her drag a five-foot cord behind her, but it used to get caught on furniture and that caused her to panic. So that was the end of that.

She likes to go for walks, but I often wonder if the trauma of catching her to put her leash on is worth it. Is it? I think it reinforces her fear of me.

I will keep my little Missie no matter what, even if she never lets me hold her; I will be content to love her at night. But I need help for her sake, not for mine. I don’t want her to spend the rest of her life in terror. I want to bring her peace. Please help her.

Jenny

Hi Jenny,

As you know, Missie has lived a life that is very foreign to what the typical pet dog lives. As a consequence, she is poorly socialized to people and possibly had negative interactions during the limited exposure she's had. It may take her a long time to adjust to this very new and strange situation she's found herself in and she may always have some limitations. But, chances are she will become more comfortable and here are some suggestions.

1. She may need some antianxiety medications to help her transition to this highly stressful but ultimately richer lifestyle. I've treated some dogs with similar backgrounds using a serotonin-enhancing medication like generic Prozac. You can ask your vet to call me (Dr. Kathy Meyer, 301.947.3333) if he or she has questions about treating. Missie.
   
2. She may respond to a DAP (Dog Appeasing Pheromone) collar. You should be able to Google it for distributors or find it at your local pet store.
   
3. Is there any kind of food that she really likes? Canned dog or cat food, roasted chicken, bacon, etc? You might pair the sound of a low volume bell (small jingle bells are fine) as you put the food down and then leave the room and remain quiet. After a bit, she should seem to make the connection between the bell and the upcoming delicious food. Try to gradually decrease the distance that you leave as she becomes more comfortable.
   
4. Keeping a lead on these dogs is often a good thing. You may want to try leaving a much shorter one, perhaps only a foot or two. Do not use it to force her to stay with you ... just to move her about when required. That way, you won't have to pick her up when you need to move her. When she defecates, it just shows you how terrified she is of people. I hate to think of what she went through to make her that way.
   
5. Try to be very low-key around her. She doesn't understand human behavior at all and sounds like she is phobic of people. Try to capitalize on her attraction to your other dog to move her about.
   
6. When you have to approach her to "corner" her, try making yourself small and backing up toward her slowly, speaking softly, and picking up her leash without looking at her.

I hope these suggestions help. Don't take her reaction to you personally. You are a hero for taking her in and giving her the time and space she'll need to reach her potential, whatever that may ultimately be.

(back to the top)

Should I keep her more confined maybe in a kennel than in a bathroom?

I have a lot of questions. I know she needs patience and love. She sleeps with me everynight and she does potty outside (she is doing better and better on the leach everyday) when I take her out. She is so withdrawn and afraid. How can I get her to trust me and know she never has to worry about being hurt any more.

I need guidance.
Thank you, Linda

Dear Linda,

These dogs haven't the slightest inkling about housetraining. They've spent their whole lives living in cages and going whenever nature called. When you're home, you might want to keep a leash attached to her collar and tether her in the various rooms you go into. That way, she'll be exposed to you while you ignore her but toss her little bits of treats.

When you have to leave her at home alone, offer water in a water bowl stand that won't tip, but no food. You can leave out a puppy training pad to see if she'll begin to go on it. I probably wouldn't leave a blanket for now, as she'll probably soil it. You can try placing a small crate with the door removed in the bathroom. A pad in there would be reasonable, at least to see how she does. Try placing her food bowl in the crate when you feed her to help her feel more comfortable going into the crate voluntarily. If she seems to find comfort in the crate, you can carry it from room to room with you as you keep her tethered in you presence. I wouldn't close her into the crate at this point, but just make it available as a "safe place" for her to be.

When you are home, you need to keep her with you and supervise her at all times. When you see her sniffing like she is preparing to eliminate, pick up her leash and take her outside. Then reward her with a treat when she goes in the appropriate place. You'll need to take her out every hour for a walk or supervised time with you in the yard with her (not just let outside in the yard on her own). When she urinates or defecates, immediately give her a piece of delicious food (chicken, cheese, moist dog treat).

Time and patience are what brings these dogs around. Usually, they never achieve the level of comfort with people that puppies raised in typical homes do. But, they often make great strides and it is very rewarding to see their progress. Sometimes antianxiety medication helps in cases that are very difficult.

(back to the top)

We have had an almost 2-yr-old puppy mill GT in our home for about a month. This dog did not know how to eat from a bowl or drink water.  She has come along way, but continues to be afraid of noises outside and the wind. Needless to say we have trouble with her potty training.  

How can we get her to be more comfortable outside without moving to the country (but then we still will have the wind)?  

Thank you, Brenda E.

Hi Brenda,

It is a huge transition for these poor creatures. If she will eat incredibly delicious treats outside (cooked chicken, lunch meat, cheese, liver, etc), see if pairing treats with the outdoors will help.  Often dogs are too stressed to even eat in situations like this. 

The best thing you can do is to try to take her out when things are quietest (early in the a.m. and later in the night). She may require anti-anxiety medication to help her through the transition. Please have your veterinarian call my office if he or she would like to discuss medication options. 301.947.3333, Veterinary Behavior Clinic.

Patience and persistence often help puppy mill dogs, but some have more difficult times than others adjusting.

(back to the top)

I have a question.

We have a one year old male cat that has been in our home for 4 months. We also adopted a 3 month old kitten, and the kitten is constantly trying to breast feed from our male cat.  We have caught him doing it at least 5 times, the male cat does not seem to mind, but I was wondering if he is getting milk from the male cat, if so could he be a female instead of male, and how do we stop this behavior?

Jody T.

Dear Jody,  

Thanks for your question. I wasn't clear if you adopted both cats at the same time. At any rate, it is highly unlikely that your kitten is getting any milk from the adult cat. Female cats only produce milk after they have kittens of their own, and then only for about 4 to 5 weeks. So, it is possible to adopt a female cat who has recently had kittens who will nurse a kitten.

Have you had your adult cat to the veterinarian? It is a very easy thing to tell males from females. Shelters are quite good at it too, especially with adult animals.

It is quite common for kittens to suck on various furry items (or even their owners!) to comfort themselves. It may be related to early weaning. They will often even knead with their forepaws while doing this, sometimes purring and closing their eyes in apparent pleasure.  As long as the adult cat doesn't mind (male or female!), it is not a problem at all. It should go away with time. In fact, it may promote bonding between the cats if he truly seems unfazed by it. It is not weird or aberrant behavior in any way.  

If, for some reason it really bothers you, you can try to encourage the kitten to sucking on a stuffed animal or blanket. However, there is the risk the kitten will develop a problem with ruining other materials (sweaters, blankets, etc.) if the behavior persists and generalizes to other materials. My basic advice is just to not worry and see what happens. It should stop on its own with no adverse effects to either cat!

(back to the top)